
Our very own TLC gardeners offer up some of their best tips on growing a great crop in Tierrasanta!
Keep your plot and the rest of the garden healthy. Follow these tips:
Inspect your plants at least once per week for signs of pest and disease. Look under, in between and all around plant foliage and fruit.
When you see an issue, deal with it immediately. If you see diseased plant material, cut it out and dispose of it in the trash at home. If you see pests like aphids, spray Neem Oil or another organic method to limit the life cycle of the bugs.
Plant your garden defensively. Do not over-plant with too many plants. Use proper spacing when planting. Think about the future size of your plants when they mature. Will there be enough airflow between your plants to limit the introduction and lifecycle of pests and disease?
When you remove plants, especially tomatoes, inspect the roots and plant material for signs of disease or insects. Did your plant have nematode nodules on the root structure? If so, then your soil is infected. (See the Nematode article below)
Dispose of all infected plant material at home.
Remember: If your garden plot is left unattended then pests and disease will proliferate through your plants and will most definitely move on to those plants in your neighbors’ plots. Each gardener plays a role in controlling the health of the TLC Garden.
Ask a fellow gardener or drop us a line with questions about pests and disease. Embrace the TLC community and join in the discussion. Send us a question here.


Get in-depth tips on how to care for your tomato plants.
Powdery mildew first appears as white, powdery spots that may form on both surfaces of leaves, on shoots, and sometimes on flowers and fruit. These spots gradually spread over a large area of the leaves and stems. An exception is one of the powdery mildews that affects artichokes, onions, peppers, and tomatoes: it produces yellow patches on leaves but little powdery growth.
Leaves infected with powdery mildew may gradually turn completely yellow, die, and fall off, which may expose fruit to sunburn. On some plants, powdery mildew may cause the leaves to twist, buckle, or otherwise distort. Powdery mildew fungal growth does not usually grow on vegetable fruits, although pea pods may get brownish spots. Severely infected plants may have reduced yields, shortened production times, and fruit that has little flavor.
Powdery mildew spores are carried by wind to new hosts. Although humidity requirements for germination vary, all powdery mildew species can germinate and infect in the absence of free water. In fact, spores of some powdery mildew fungi are killed and germination is inhibited by water on plant surfaces for extended periods. Moderate temperatures (60° to 80°F) and shady conditions generally are the most favorable for powdery mildew development. Spores and fungal growth are sensitive to extreme heat (above 90°F) and direct sunlight.
This excerpt taken from the UC ANR IPM website.


Root-knot nematodes are plant-parasitic nematodes. They exist in soil in areas with hot-climates or short winters… a place just like San Diego! Did you know root-knot nematodes cause 5% of global crop loss?
The larvae infect plant roots, causing the development of root-knot galls that drain the plant’s photosynthate and nutrients (see the image for examples of what the galls look like on a root system). Infection of young plants may be lethal, while infection of mature plans causes decreased yield.
Root-knot nematodes are a known problem in the soil of the TLC garden. They especially like our tomatoes. They can affect other plants like beets, too.
Since nematodes live in the soil, you can not physically see them with the naked eye. You will know your plants have them when you see their effects on plant growth and yield production.
There are some mitigation steps you can try:
Rotate the location in your beds where you plant tomatoes and other nematode favorites. If you locate your tomato plants in the same place each season then the nematodes will always have a host in which to propagate. By moving locations you are limiting the organism’s ability to thrive.
It has been suggested that Neem husk fertilizer and Oyster shell fertilizer can be used when planting your tomatoes as a means to fend of nematodes. Scott M, in plot #13, used Neem husk fertilizer with his plants last season and he did not suffer any nematodes. These kinds of fertilizers create an environment that the nematodes do not like to live in. *Note: We discourage the use of toxic chemicals and harsh pesticides in the TLC Garden.*
Buy nematode-resistant varieties of plants. If you are starting plants from seed, look for labelling indicating disease and pest resistance. If you are buying plants from the nursery, chat with store staff to determine whether the varieties they sell are resistant. Often times a little research will be your best weapon to combat diseases and pests.
We’ve all done it. Too many plants in the garden bed. Be sure to think about the final size of your mature plants. While it is easy to put seeds or baby plants in a big open bed, think about how crowded things will get when they grow to mature size. Remember that plants need good space and air-flow to encourage healthy growth. A crowded bed invites insect pests, small rodents, and even powdery mildew to infest your precious plants.
A crowded bed also forces your plants to compete for water and soil nutrients, thus resulting in lower yields.
Just like we learned during COVID… Keep your distance!


Know how much water your plants need. Overwatering causes big problems for your plants’ development and fruit production. Not to mention, overwatering is simply wasteful.
If your plants have yellowed leaves then it might be an indicator of too much water.
You always want to water your plants deeply. Water enough that you get a good soaking deep into the soil where the full root system can access the moisture. A lot of times, gardeners water enough so the first couple of inches of soil are wet, but during the summer you need to be concerned with watering deep into the soil to hold off heat stress and ensure your plants are getting enough water. Remember that tomato roots can go down 18 inches into the soil.
Official watering days in the garden are: Monday, Wednesday and Saturday.
You can use supplemental water from containers any day. The rain barrels are for all to use. Be mindful of other gardeners’ private buckets or containers. Do not use others’ resources without their permission.
Check out our write-up on watering tomatoes.
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