Tomato T.L.C.
The tomato plants are in the ground. Now what?
Below are some in-depth tips to help you grow your biggest tomato crop this season.
Mulch
Mulch is simply a covering over the soil that keeps moisture in, blocks weeds, cools soil in summer heat and protects low growing tomatoes from resting on the ground. Using organic mulches such as grass clippings, hay, leaves or sawdust will decompose providing food for the millions of micro-organisms that live in the soil while making nutrients available to your plants. Over time, mulch dramatically improves soil structure as well.
Mulch tomatoes about 4-5 weeks after planting. This gives the soil a chance to warm-up.
If using woody materials, such as wood chips, add extra nitrogen fertilizer.
Keep mulch away from stems.
Staked or trellised plants usually benefit from mulch as it helps to save soil moisture.
Side Dressing
Side dressing means placing fertilizer around the plants to give them extra nourishment through the season. Tomatoes are heavy feeders.
Stay away from high nitrogen (N) fertilizer. When you over-fertilize you get tall, dark green leaves and plants with few tomatoes. It is best to use a 5-10-5 or 5-10-10 mixed fertilizer. If you are uncertain, use a balanced mix like 8-8-8. These numbers correspond to the concentration of macro-nutrients: Nitrogen (N) - Phosphorus (P) - Potassium (K).
Start side dressing when first tomatoes are about the size of a golf ball. Use about 1 ½ tablespoon per plant and spread in a 1-inch-deep circular furrow five to six inches away from stem. Keep fertilizer away from stem and off leaves: it could burn them. Cover fertilizer with one to two inches of soil. The next rain or watering will carry the nutrients down into the root zone of the plants. Side dressing can be done about once a month. Remember, tomatoes are heavy feeders.
Disease Prevention Tips
Rotate your crops each year to avoid soil borne diseases. Some serious diseases can live in the soil for years. Wait 2-3 years to plant where tomatoes have grown before. Also, avoid planting where potatoes, peppers or eggplant grew the previous season.
Plant resistant varieties. Most seed companies list resistance after the name of variety. Example, N for nematode resistant, V or F for wilts resistance.
Don’t smoke in the garden. A smoker can infect a plant with Tobacco Mosaic Virus, a disease that can really cut down on harvest. Look for a T after the name on package to indicate resistance to this virus. For those who smoke, remember to always wash your hands before handling tomato plants.
Clean up your garden plot well at the end of the season. Many disease-causing organisms spend the winter in garden debris in the soil. Destroy any infected material: Never Compost Diseased Plant Material. Bag your diseased plant material and dispose of at your home.
Tomato Resistance Key
Use these keys for identifying plant varieties resistant to disease.
V Verticillium Wilt
F Fusarium Wilt
FF Fusarium, races 1 and 2
FFF Fusarium, races 1, 2, and 3
N Nematodes
A Alternaria
T Tobacco Mosaic Virus
St Stemphylium (Gray Leaf Spot)
TSWV Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus
Want more details? Here are some great links that discuss tomato diseases, pests and how to control them:
Watering
Tomatoes require an even supply of water. At least one inch of water per week.
Water thoroughly at base of plant to encourage the roots to seek water and nutrients deep in the soil. When watering, soak soil up to 6 inches deep.
Water only when your plants need it.
Water early in the day to cut down on evaporation losses and to give plants plenty of time to dry out. Avoid watering midday and evenings.
Do not spray water above your plants and let the water rain down. Keep leaves dry to help prevent disease.
Use a good mulch.
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